The objective of Greenpeace was to quantify the use of two groups of chemicals, phthalates and synthetic musks in a random selection of world famous brands of perfumes. Thus an independent laboratory conducted tests on 36 brands of cologne and perfume.
Why phthalates or phthalate esters?
Diethyl phthalate (DEP) is used in a wide range of cosmetics and other personal care products as a solvent vehicle of fragrances and other cosmetic ingredients, and to denature alcohol. Considered slightly toxic compared to some other phthalates, DEP is involved in some recent studies: changes in the DNA of sperm cells and alterations in lung function.
Why synthetic musks?
Synthetic musks are industrial aromatics used in place of natural musk, much more expensive. They are embedded in many products: detergents, room fresheners, creams, soaps and perfumes. There are three major chemical groups, nitro musks (nitro musk ambrette which is banned in EU since 1995), polycyclic musks and macrocyclic musks. They are persistent, which can concentrate in living tissue. Thus musks used in perfumes are contaminants of human blood and breast milk. But there is also growing evidence that some musks interfere with the hormonal system and exacerbate the effects of exposure to other toxic substances.
The results of this survey, phthalates and synthetic musks are present in virtually all brands of perfumes tested, in amounts varying widely from one brand to another. The DEP has been identified in 34 of the 36 perfumes tested, including the highest levels were found in Eternity for Women Calvin Klein, Iris Blue Melvita, and Le Male by Jean Paul Gaultier. The two flavors in which this chemical has not been detected were Gloria Vanderbilt Vanderbilt and High Speed by Bogner. The total levels of synthetic musks highest were measured in White Musk The Body Shop, Le Male by Gaultier and The Kiss of the Dragon by Cartier.
In the words of Greenpeace, "these results suggest that regular use of most perfumes contributes substantially to the daily exposure of individuals to these potentially dangerous chemicals and whose long-term consequences remain unknown." The body care products such as perfumes, that we apply directly to skin, provide a means of repeated exposure to relatively concentrated doses.
So what do we do?
While many gaps appear in the current legislation, hoping that the new EU chemical regulation REACH (Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals), currently under development, change this state of facts, putting in place a procedure requiring abandonment and substitution of hazardous substances, particularly those characterized as "extremely worrying".
Meanwhile, phthalates and synthetic musks are rarely mentioned on the packaging of perfume may be advised to apply the fragrance more on clothing than on skin, while advising pregnant women to avoid them.
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